J-Bar-M
2201 Leeland Street
Houston, Texas
$$

Four AM comes early for everyone, but it’s a sacred hour when you’re the pitmaster at a top-ranked restaurant. With a freshly brewed coffee in hand the world is still cloaked in darkness as you make your way around the kitchen, the smell of post oak and tender meats already wafting on the air. There’s a rhythm to this early morning ritual, a lighting of fires, a placing of meat beginning their 16-hour cook, a symphony of sizzling fat and crackling coals that only the truly dedicated can appreciate. As the first light of dawn creeps across the Houston skyline, it’s not just the anticipation of hungry patrons that stirs you—it’s the knowledge that you’re about to share a piece of your soul with the world, one smoky, succulent, mouth-watering bite at a time. Welcome to the world of supreme barbecue, where the day starts before the roosters’ crow, and the magic of the four 1,000-gallon steel grills unfolds with every slow-cooked masterpiece.

Yes, we’re talking about J Bar M Barbeque, the Bayou City’s highly acclaimed Smokehouse and Beer Garden. Nestled in Houston’s bustling East End, J-Bar-M BBQ offers a tantalizing dive into Central Texas-style barbecue with a modern twist. This relative “newcomer” to the city’s competitive BBQ scene has quickly carved out a niche for itself, blending traditional techniques with innovative flavors to the point that it made Texas Monthly’s Top 25 New Barbeque Places in September 2023.

Upon entering, you’re greeted by the intoxicating aroma of smoldering post oak. The spacious, industrial-chic interior features communal tables, intimate nooks, and large windows that flood the 8,000-square-foot space with natural light. An open kitchen design carving station allows diners to witness the pit masters at work, adding to the authentic experience.

J-Bar-M’s menu showcases classic Central Texas barbecue staples synonymous worldwide with The Lonestar State alongside creative specials. Their brisket is a standout—fork-tender with a perfectly rendered fat cap and a peppery bark that packs a punch. The pork ribs strike an ideal balance between smoky and sweet, easily falling off the bone. The jalapeno and cheddar cheese-filled sausages pop with every bite. Unfortunately, I was too full to try the barbecued spaghetti. I can promise I will do so on one of many return trips.

Service is friendly and efficient, with staff happy to guide newcomers through the nuances of their extended menu. Dinner service also includes Hanger and Ribeye steaks which happen to be my personal favorite cuts of meat. The restaurant also boasts an impressive selection of local craft beers and creative cocktails that complement the smoky flavors of the barbecue. Their signature drink, a spin on an old-fashioned, is a homerun worthy of the nearby Astros. The drink is Old Forester bourbon, bitters, and a simple syrup that also spent 16 hours being smoked. 

While J-Bar-M itself may not have the decades-long history of some of the other Houston BBQ institutions, it’s quickly establishing itself as a formidable player in the local EaDO scene. 

The building, which sits on land the family has owned since 1900, is owned by lifelong Houstonian and longtime restauranteur John Toomey and operated by his family. They are no strangers to barbeque. John opened both The Green Room Restaurant and Houlahan’s Hamburgers in the 1970s on Westheimer. For those doing the quick math, yes, that does make him 96 years old, and you’ll still find him in the restaurant every day “holding court” and inspecting the food they serve. 

For his grandson, Charles Toomey, who now manages the operations, it has always been about family. His earliest memories include Sundays spent in the family pool while John tended to the grill. 

For those looking to eat al fresco, step into their sun-drenched beer garden (named for a Catholic Priest and hunting companion), where the aroma of slow-cooked meats mingles with the clinking of ice-filled glasses. The outdoor oasis serves up pit-smoked delights alongside handcrafted libations, homestyle sides, and indulgent desserts. With ample seating for up to 200 guests, this versatile outdoor section adapts easily to various occasions.

Its combination of time-honored techniques, quality ingredients, and innovative touches makes it a worthy destination for BBQ aficionados and casual diners.

Overall, J-Bar-M BBQ offers a stellar barbecue experience that respects tradition while pushing the envelope just enough to keep things interesting. It’s a welcome addition to Houston’s rich barbecue landscape and definitely worth a visit for anyone craving top-notch Texas-style BBQ.

 You’re about to share a piece of your soul with the world…

It has always been about family.
– Charles Toomey